Exploring The Long Neck Tribe

Myanmar is the country with the largest number of different ethnicities in the world. A total of 135. That is a lot for only one single country, right? Yet, I could mention some of its major groups and you would have no clue what am I am talking about: Bamar, Shan, Rakhine, Mon… The list is endless.

Nevertheless, there is one minor group which is internationally famous and yet, a significant number of people don’t know where they actually come from. I am talking about the Kayan, which became popular across all continents due to that the long neck women form part of this ethnic group. 

Many people believe that long neck women (or Kayan women) come from one of these Karen villages in Thailand around Chiang Mai. This is wrong as, actually, long neck people come from one very small region in Myanmar called Loikaw, in Kayah State.

How did they get into Thailand then? When the dark times in Myanmar, they ran away from the country regime (along with all the people from their tribe) and sought refuge in the north of Thailand. Since then, Kayan women have been living in the popularly called Karen villages around Chiang Mai, which are basically refugee camps.

Unfortunately, during all these years in Thailand, giraffe women have been living in a state of semi-slavery, as they have been selling souvenirs and posing for tourists to take pictures, like if they were zoo animals. However, thanks to the ceasefire in Myanmar, some of them have been able to come back to their origins and with their families in Loikaw, Kayah State. Loikaw is their actual home and, here, they walk freely and are just one more citizen.

Kayan women

Long neck women – The secret of the rings

I am sure that most of you are wondering… And why do they wear these big rings around their necks? I asked several people and all of them told me the same. Many decades ago, the region was home to some tigers. They do not wear rings only around their neck but also around their extremities.

It was actually a self-defense system against tiger attacks. That is what people tell. Believe it or not is up to you ;). However, nowadays long neck tribes are wearing them only for cultural reasons.

By the way, the popular urban legend says that if long neck people removed the rings they would die. Have you ever heard it? Actually, it is total bullshit. They can remove and put them back on whenever they want. One day, I even saw one woman who was not wearing them. We were on the same bus towards Yangon. Usually, they only remove them on specific occasions. For example, in that case, she had to travel. Removing and putting them back would take many hours.

Long neck village

Looking for Kayan women

The reason why I traveled all the way to Loikaw in Kayah State is that I really wanted to see Kayan people and long neck women in the original place where they actually come from, away from tourists and get to see their authentic life. I thought it might be difficult to meet them plus they would be asking for money all the time but no way… They were just everywhere. You get to meet them on the street just walking, in the local market selling whatever it was or just hanging out with their family in front of their home. They were just behaving naturally and even getting surprised when they saw a foreigner walking around.

One day I decided to explore and discover more long neck tribe villages by going outside of Loikaw city. The worst thing about Loikaw is that there is no way to hire a motorbike by yourself. Basically, because it is illegal. If you wish to go any further, the only way to go is by car. I randomly met a guy who had a car and he agreed to take me around for a whole morning for 25$. He was a funny dude. Since the moment I met him until he dropped me at the hotel, he was holding a beer in his hand. Yes, this had a domino effect on me as well 🙂

I was pretty excited to hire a guide because I could use him as a translator and get to know more of these fascinating women. But guess what. Kayan women have their own language and most of them can’t even speak Burmese.

But anyway. Firstly, he took me to a popular Kayan village where dozens of long neck women were living in. I didn’t like it so much because it was a village prepared for receiving tourists, even though all of the tourists were actually Burmese. They were Burmese of a middle-high class who had come from Yangon.

Long neck girls

How to find the authentic long neck villages?

One piece of advice? If you really want to see their real life, tell your driver not to take you to the famous long neck tribe village where all tourists go. Yes, it is huge and it is actually much more authentic than the ones in Thailand. But trust me, they are selling souvenirs and you came all the way to Loikaw to see their authentic way of life, right? Instead, tell your driver to take you to off the beaten track long neck villages. There are no specific ones. Just tell him to drive and you will randomly find them because there are many of them. You will get to see their authentic life and you will be able to take the best shots ever.

You didn’t hire a driver? No problem at all. Get a bicycle and just get out of the city. Spend the whole day riding around. Trust me. You will find loads of them randomly.

Long neck tribe

Thanks : againstthecompass.com

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Guide To Loikaw

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We were driving at no more than 25km/h, which was not surprising at all, given the fact that the road was extremely bumpy and hilly and we were traveling in an incredibly small van with more than twenty people squeezed onto narrow seats. 

By my perception, there was no more space but still, in every village, more and more people were trying to get in.

When there truly was no more physical space, people sat on the top.

But this was not all.

The closer we got to Loikaw, the more extravagant and diverse the people getting in the mini-van were, from Palaung to Kayan women (long-neck women), Shan and even Buddhist monks.

There was more ethnic and group diversity on that bus than in many European countries and I could not be more fascinated by all those different people, wearing turbans and colorful dresses.

However, when I saw all their faces staring at me, I quickly realized that the only strange and peculiar thing in that bus was not them, but a foreigner traveling to Loikaw on a local bus.

Loikaw is a city and the capital of the Kayah State, the smallest state in Myanmar but, at the same time, the one with the greatest ethnic diversity.

For years, Kayah State was closed to independent travelers and the only way to get in was on a tour organized by a local agency.

However, from 2013, Loikaw and Demoso, two of its seven provinces, were finally opened and ready to be explored by travelers seeking authentic adventures and wanting to avoid the growing mass tourism in Myanmar.

Note: The other five provinces remain closed due to ongoing ethnic conflicts.

Things to do in Loikaw

Visit authentic Kayan villages

Kayan, whose women are more popularly known as the long-neck women, are the best known group in the province.

You would be entirely wrong if you think that visiting Loikaw would be the same experience as visiting Karen villages in Thailand, which goes against any form of ethical travel.

You would be surprised to know that these women are originally from Loikaw and the ones who live in Thailand are actual Burmese refugees who had to migrate some years ago.

In Loikaw, you can meet Kayan women shopping at the local bazaar and just living their daily lives.

Note: In Loikaw, there is also a Kayan village which is totally aimed at tourists., Even though not many tourists come here and it’s miles away from the villages in Thailand I strongly recommend you avoid it

For more information, read: The long-neck women villages in Myanmar

Smiley Kayan woman – Loikaw Myanmar

Learn and meet other ethnic groups

From Palaung to Shan and Kayah, besides Kayan people, Loikaw is not short in tribal groups.

If you like photographing people, you are going to love Loikaw and Kayah State, as this is home to the largest ethnic diversity in Myanmar.

The Kayah, whose women tend to wear black and red dresses, are a Sino-Tibetan people and the largest group in Kayah State.

Palaung people, a group of people who mainly live in Shan State, can also be met in Kayah.

You may meet plenty of different people in the city but I recommend you cycle outside of the city, where most people are working in the fields.

A Kayah woman, somewhere around Loikaw – Famous places in Loikaw

Stunning pagodas with stunning views

In Loikaw city there is a famous pagoda called Taung Kwe, which is located at the top of a small hill, from where you get stunning views of the town.

In my opinion, after the Golden Rock, it was one of the best pagodas I got to visit in Burma, not only for its greatness but also for the views and its spiritual atmosphere. And there were no tourists walking around!

Due to the majesty of this pagoda, it does not seem strange that Burmese people from other parts of the country come to the region for a weekend gateway.

The pagoda in Loikaw and a group of Palaung school girls – Loikaw Burma

Enjoy the unique, local cuisine

If you are a foodie, you should know that Loikaw is famous for its local cuisine, consisting of rice paste-based dishes, like rice rolls filled with pork meat and a kind of risotto with minced tuna, vegetables and plenty of spices.

They keep smashing the rice for hours until it gets the desired texture. In order to obtain the rice paste, they keep kneading it heavily for a considerable amount of time.

I tried this last dish in a local home so not sure if you can find it in restaurants.

However, I tried the rice rolls in a few local eateries. 

Read: A guide to food in Myanmar

Preparing the rice paste

Spot elephants randomly

Did you know that Myanmar is the country with the largest number of domestic elephants in the world?

Not only this but also it is one of the few places in the world where they don’t use domestic elephants for tourists to ride them.

Instead, they train them to collect firewood from the forest.

I am not saying that this is a good thing; elephants should be at liberty and I am not even very convinced that these people treat them as they deserve.

A random elephant – Loikaw Kayah State

Practical information

Where is it?

Loikaw is located in Kayah State, in Eastern Myanmar, 200km south of Inle Lake.

How to get in Loikaw?

Inle Lake to Loikaw – If you come from Inle Lake, there is a local, direct mini-bus that leaves at 8am. It’s only 200km away but it’s a 9-hour journey. When I took it in December 2015, it cost me around $8. I suggest you ask the hotel if timings have changed since then.

Yangon to Loikaw – If you come from Yangon, there are big buses going there daily. It’s a 16-hour journey and tickets cost around $10. Additionally, Loikaw has a small airport with flights to and from Yangon. It will save you some time if you don’t mind paying the extra money. Check Air KZB for latest timings and prices.

On my way from Inle Lake to Loikaw – Loikaw travel

Accommodation in Loikaw City

Please note that, in Loikaw, accommodation might be expensive for budget backpackers.

Budget – Loikaw Princess Motel – The cheapest accommodation in town. The staff is extremely friendly and they even lend you a free bicycle to move around. Highly recommended.

Click here to check prices and availability

Slightly better – Kayan Golden Sky Motel – If you are a couple, you may also like this hotel, which is the second most budget hotel in town and one of the cleanest budget accommodations in the country.

Click here to check prices and availability

How to move around / visit places

Motorbike – Unfortunately, renting a motorbike is strictly forbidden to tourists, as they don’t want you to go very far away.

Bicycle – Your best choice. At one of the hotels above, rental is free. Otherwise, you can find them easily around town.

Taxi – If you don’t have a lot of time or want to explore places further from the city, you can also hire a taxi. I paid $25 for half a day. I am sure that the hotel can provide you with a driver but, if you want to go with the same guy I did, here’s his Facebook page. He’s a funny man who speaks basic English and loved drinking beer. His profile. 

Conclusion

Loikaw is, definitely, a real off the beaten track place in Myanmar. At the beginning of 2016, I still triggered the interest of the locals with my presence. They pointed me out, laughed and asked for selfies continuously. I think that it is only a matter of time before that all this will change, so hurry up!

If you like my website and found this post useful, remember that, if you book any service through any of my links, I will get a small commission at no extra cost to you. These earnings help me maintain and keep Against the Compass going! Thanks 🙂

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Introduction

Really!

Foreigner-friendly guest houses are scattered throughout Loikaw city and each has their own pros and cons, but in general they tend to be better value for your dollar than other areas in Burma. Restaurants are also sprinkled around town, and many offer multiple styles of food, including Thai, Chinese, Burmese and Western. Prices are reasonable, and their river fish and prawns can be extremely tasty.Most of the region’s attractions are natural, such as lakes and caves, and trekking is popular. Hill-top pagodas provide stunning views of the area, stretching all the way to the Shan mountain range. You’ll also find that the Kayah people are friendly and intrigued by the relatively unusual sight of foreign tourists.  

The region’s faith is an amalgam of beliefs — Christian churches set up by missionaries play an important role in daily life alongside mosques and temples. There’s also a continued strong presence of local ancient animistic beliefs involving Kayhto Bo “spirit poles”, which are the source of a large festival held once a year.

Orientation

You’ll find most of the population of Loikaw city surrounding the lake in the middle of town, or along the river in the south. The roads attempt a grid structure, but are more often than not interrupted by rivers and lakes of varying sizes. The town is small enough to cross by motorbike in 15 minutes, but at the time of research, finding a motorbike to rent (or even a bicycle) was near impossible. Due to the lack of self-transporting vehicles, using a guide and their transport is the usual way of getting in, out and around town. 

Within town, to the south just past the river, is a series of hilltop pagodas that are a must visit. Myaka Lup pagoda, Shwe Let War pagoda and Nagayon pagoda stand behind the most famous Taung Kwe pagoda, which can be seen from almost anywhere in the city. Other sights such as Seven Step Lakes and the villages west of town lie a good half hour to an hour away and you will require a guide to visit them. A guide (or at least transport) is also needed to take you to Kyet Cave, about an hour or so’s drive east of town. 

The airport and bus station lie in the north along the main road in and out of town. Trishaws and taxis are available throughout town; the easiest place to find trishaws is near the river in the south, while taxis can be reserved through your hotel. Many city and area maps are given out at hotels, but be warned, these maps are not to scale!

ATMs and banks are found along the main road leading into town and hotels can exchange money for you, but at a poor rate compared to the banks. Internet is available mostly at restaurants and the KKS cafes. Many hotels have WiFi available but don’t expect a fast connection.

For emergency services, the Loikaw hospital T: (08) 321 511 is in the northern area of town, just south of the airport. The police station is next to the banks on the main road. 

For tourist info, Friend World can be reached at (08) 322 717, and Bardo Travel and Tours has a Loikaw branch at Ma / 210 Hnin Si Road, Mingalar Quarter. T: (083) 22745, (0942) 800 6939.

A handful of decent treks can be made in the area without permits. Some are one day and some are overnight. You will still need a guide, with most charing around 35,000 kyat per day. Ask your guide which trails are open, because permitted areas are always changing and some may have accessibility issues in wet season.

Loikaw is the capital of Kayah State, one of the least visited but more picturesque places we’ve found in Burma (Myanmar). The state is home to mountain-top pagodas, volcanic lakes, mysterious caves and a vast array of ethnic groups, including the Padaung – female members are often referred to somewhat disrespectfully as the “long necks” due to the golden rings traditionally placed around their necks from a young age. Bordering Thailand and rich in rivers and teak, this area has a long history of conflict between the Burmese junta and local ethnic military groups who have competed for control over the natural resources and fertile lands. In fact, until very recently, the state was off limits to foreigners and was only accessible with special (often multiple) permits.

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Pan Pet

About 25 miles away from Loikaw through Deemawso, Pan Pet is an area with five villages where the famous Kayan or Padaung people lives.

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Hta Nee La Le

A very interesting village where you can learn about Kayah traditional believes, festival and events like Kayhtoebo Hall and Shrines where animist traditions are still practiced, and the fortune telling by using the chicken bones which is the most interesting thing in this village.

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Kyat Gu, The Ghost Cave

Located 10-mile away from Loikaw, this sprawling natural limestone cave has broken wooden boxes which are believed to be coffins from many years ago.

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